Looking to crochet your first crochet garment? Learn how to crochet a sweater with the Someday Sweater pattern. This simple crochet pullover features a comfy, boxy fit, slight balloon sleeves and an adjustable length!
This free crochet sweater pattern is accompanied by a video tutorial.
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Thank you to WeCrochet for providing the yarn for this free crochet tank top pattern! As always all thoughts and opinions are 100% my own 🙂
Have you ever thought that one day you’d like to crochet a sweater? Or maybe crocheting a garment seemed a bit daunting? Well, if you’re looking for your first crochet garment project the Someday Sweater is a great beginner-friendly sweater pattern!
Made with bulky weight yarn, the Someday Sweater works up relatively quickly but is a lot more wearable than super bulky crochet projects. Perfect for fall, winter and even spring, you can wear this modern crop crochet jumper with anything! Pair it with jeans, a skirt or over a dress, the Someday Sweater will be your go to hand made sweater!
The Someday Sweater is crocheted in 4 panels using basic stitches. The vast majority of this sweater is worked in half double crochet with front and back post half double crochets used for the ribbing and finished off with slip stitches for a nice clean edge.
Single crochets are crocheted around the neckline and then you can add on an optional ribbed collar. All of the crochet stitches are demonstrated in the step by step video tutorial!
This simple crochet pullover consists of a back panel, front panel and 2 sleeves. The back panel is crocheted from the shoulders down so you can crochet this sweater to any length you like!
Whether you want a cropped sweater, hip length jumper or long pullover to wear with leggings, just by adding more rows to make your sweater longer or removing rows to make your sweater shorter! It’s also just a rectangle so there is absolutely no shaping in the piece.
The front panel is also crocheted from the shoulders down but we’ll start with crocheting the left shoulder as a separate piece, crochet the right shoulder and then connect them together. I love this method as it creates a smooth, looking neckline without any of the puckering or unevenness of decreasing stitches!
The sleeves are crocheted from the cuffs up and then there are 2 rows of increases to help create the balloon shape of the sleeves. After that it’s just straight rows of half double crochets.
All the pieces are sewn together and then the collar is crocheted directly onto the neck opening. Single crochets are crocheted along the neckline and then a few rounds of front and back post half double crochets form the ribbed collar (as pictured). The ribbed collar is completely optional, so you can finish off your sweater with just the single crochets.
Looking for more free crochet patterns?
1. Weekend Snuggle Sweater / 2. In The Clouds Cardigan / 3. Briar Pocket Cardigan
Design Inspiration
One of the most common questions I get asked is ‘I’ve never crocheted a garment before, which crochet project should I pick?’ Often, I recommend the Briar Pocket Cardigan which is great if you want a cardigan but so many of you have asked for a sweater version! The Someday Sweater isn’t *quite* an exact sweater version but it has the same boxy fit, simple construction and beginner friendly stitches!
I really wanted this project to be made in bulky yarn as it works up a lot quicker than thin yarns (If you’re looking for a thinner crochet pullover, check out the Weekend Snuggle Sweater!) but its more wearable and layer-able than super chunky sweaters!
The Brooklyn Sweater is also a reader favourite, as it really works up super quickly, but it’s made with super bulky yarn so it can only be worn in the winter. So, the Someday Sweater was created as a hybrid version between the two patterns!
Yarn
This cropped crochet sweater project uses WeCrochet’s Mighty Stitch Bulky yarn in the shade mint. Mighty Stitch is made up of an 80% acrylic with 20% wool blend, with 24 different shades and comes in lots of different versions – there’s a Mighty Stitch Worsted and Mighty Stitch Super Bulky too!
Acrylic wool blends are one of the best types of yarns out there – you get the warmth from wool but at a lower price with the durability and machine-washing properties of acrylic yarns. From the fibre blend this yarn also has a slight sheen to it but most importantly Mighty Stitch has great drape!
The drape of your yarn determines how your sweater will fit on your body! If the yarn you’re using is stiff, your sweater will just hang straight down. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing for things like crochet coats (See the Stonewash Pocket Coatigan) or home ware (See Boho Crochet Coasters).
However, if you want a cosy sweater that you’ll wear time and time again, comfort is key! Yarns that have a looser twist tend be good choices and as always crochet a swatch to see if you like the way the yarn feels! If the yarn isn’t quite right you can always save it for another project 🙂
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Video Tutorial
Add the Someday Sweater to your Ravelry queue!
Someday Sweater - Ad-free, printable version here!
NOTES:
*Sample is a size small shown on a 5’3” model with a 32” bust.
*The sizing guide follows size XS(S, M, L, XL)(2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). E.g. “Ch 55(59, 63, 71, 75)(83, 87, 95, 99) means Ch 55 for XS, Ch 59 for Small, Ch 63 for Medium, Ch 71 for Large, Ch 75 for XL, Ch 83 for 2XL, Ch 87 for 3XL, Ch 95 for 4XL and Ch 99 for 5XL.” If there is only one number, it applies to all sizes.
*”HDC 10” means HDC into the next 10 stitches.
*”2HDC” means place 2 HDC into the same stitch.
*The turning chain ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch.
*Total stitches are indicated between < >.
*This pattern uses US crochet terms.
*The back and front panels are crocheted from the shoulders down so you can adjust the length (alteration instructions provided). The sleeves are crocheted from the cuffs up.
*The body panels are sewn together and then the sleeves are sewn onto the body. The collar is crocheted directly onto the neck opening.
*All pieces are sewn together with the RS on the inside and the WS facing outwards.
LEVEL: Beginner+/Easy
Materials
Yarn – WeCrochet Mighty Stitch Bulky – Chunky/Bulky (5), 124m/100g, 136yds/3.5oz, 80% Acrylic + 20% Superwash Wool, Mint
6(7, 8, 8, 9)(10, 11, 11, 12) skeins
6.5mm (US K) Crochet Hook
Darning Needle
Scissors
Stitches & Abbreviations
Ch = Chain
Sl st = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
FpHDC = Front Post Half Double Crochet
BpHDC = Back Post Half Double Crochet
St(s) = Stitch(es)
Rep = Repeat
RS = Right Side
WS = Wrong Side
Measurements cm:
To fit Bust: 76(86, 96, 106, 117)(127, 137, 147, 158)
Back Width: 45(48, 52, 58, 62)(68, 72, 78, 82)
Length: 41(43, 45, 45, 47)(47, 49, 49, 51)
Armhole: 16(17, 18, 19, 20)(21, 23, 23, 25)
Sleeve length: 38(38, 39, 39, 41)(41, 43, 43, 44)
Measurements inches:
To fit Bust: 30(34, 38, 42, 46)(50, 54, 58, 62)
Back Width: 17.5(19, 20.5, 23, 24.5)(27, 28.5, 30.5, 32.5)
Length: 16(17, 17.5, 17.5, 18.5)(18.5, 19.5, 19.5, 20)
Armhole: 6(6.5, 7, 7.5, 8)(8.5, 9, 9, 10)
Sleeve length: 15(15, 15.5, 15.5, 16)(16, 16.5, 16.5, 17)
GAUGE: 10cm/4” square = 12 stitches wide x 10 rows tall in half double crochet
Someday Sweater Crochet Pattern
Back Panel
FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 55(59, 63, 71, 75)(83, 87, 95, 99).
ROW 1 (RS): HDC into 2nd ch from the hook, HDC across, turn.
<54(58, 62, 70, 74)(82, 86, 94, 98)>
ROW 2: Ch 1, HDC across, turn.
<54(58, 62, 70, 74)(82, 86, 94, 98)>
Repeat ROW 2 until ROW 36(38, 40, 40, 42)(42, 44, 44, 46).
*ALTERATION NOTE: You can make your sweater longer/shorter by adding/removing rows. Please keep in mind that the ribbing adds 4cm/1.5” to the body length.
Do not fasten off! Proceed directly to ‘BODY RIBBING’ instructions.
Body Ribbing
ROW 1: Ch 1, HDC in 1st st, *FpHDC 2, BpHDC 2; rep from * until last st, HDC in last st, turn.
<54(58, 62, 70, 74)(82, 86, 94, 98)>
Repeat ROW 1 until ROW 4.
Total Rows: <40(42, 44, 44, 46)(46, 48, 48, 50)>
FINAL ROW: Ch 1, sl st across.
<54(58, 62, 70, 74)(82, 86, 94, 98)>
Fasten off.
Front Panel
Left Shoulder
FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 17(19, 21, 25, 27)(30, 32, 36, 38).
ROW 1 (RS): HDC into 2nd ch from the hook, HDC across, turn.
<16(18, 20, 24, 26)(29, 31, 35, 37)>
ROW 2: Ch 1, HDC in each st until last st, 2HDC in last st, turn.
<17(19, 21, 25, 27)(30, 32, 36, 38)>
ROW 3: Ch 1, 2HDC in 1st st, HDC across, turn.
<18(20, 22, 26, 28)(31, 33, 37, 39)>
ROW 4: Ch 1, HDC in each st until last st, 2HDC in last st, turn.
<19(21, 23, 27, 29)(32, 34, 38, 40)>
ROW 5: Ch 1, 2HDC in 1st st, HDC across, turn.
<20(22, 24, 28, 30)(33, 35, 39, 41)>
ROW 6: Ch 1, HDC in each st until last st, 2HDC in last st, turn.
<21(23, 25, 29, 31)(34, 36, 40, 42)>
Fasten off.
Right Shoulder
FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 17(19, 21, 25, 27)(30, 32, 36, 38).
ROW 1(RS): HDC into 2nd ch from the hook, HDC across, turn.
<16(18, 20, 24, 26)(29, 31, 35, 37)>
ROW 2: Ch 1, 2HDC in 1st st, HDC across, turn.
<17(19, 21, 25, 27)(30, 32, 36, 38)>
ROW 3: Ch 1, HDC in each st until last st, 2HDC in last st, turn.
<18(20, 22, 26, 28)(31, 33, 37, 39)>
ROW 4: Ch 1, 2HDC in 1st st, HDC across, turn.
<19(21, 23, 27, 29)(32, 34, 38, 40)>
ROW 5: Ch 1, HDC in each st until last st, 2HDC in last st, turn.
<20(22, 24, 28, 30)(33, 35, 39, 41)>
ROW 6: Ch 1, 2HDC in 1st st, HDC across, turn.
<21(23, 25, 29, 31)(34, 36, 40, 42)>
ROW 7 (JOINING ROW): Ch 1, HDC in each st until last st, 2 HDC in last st, ch 10(10, 10, 10, 10)(12, 12, 12, 12)
<22(24, 26, 30, 32)(35, 37, 41, 43)sts + 10(10, 10, 10, 10)(12, 12, 12, 12)chs>
Do not fasten off! We’ll now join the ‘LEFT SHOULDER’ to the ‘RIGHT SHOULDER’.
Place the ‘LEFT SHOULDER’ piece (with the right side facing up) to the left of the ‘RIGHT SHOULDER’ piece.
Place 2HDC in the 1st st of the ‘LEFT SHOULDER’, HDC across, turn.
<44(48, 52, 60, 64)(70, 74, 82, 86) + 10(10, 10, 10, 10)(12, 12, 12, 12)chs>
ROW 8: Ch 1, HDC across, turn.
<54(58, 62, 70, 74)(82, 86, 94, 98)>
Repeat ROW 8 until ROW 36(38, 40, 40, 42)(42, 44, 44, 46).
*ALTERATION NOTE: If you altered the number of rows of your back panel, make sure you crochet the same number of rows in your front panel.
Do not fasten off! Repeat the ‘BODY RIBBING’ instructions.
Sleeves
(make 2)
FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 21(23, 23, 25, 25)(27, 29, 31, 31).
ROW 1 (RS): HDC into 2nd ch from the hook, HDC across, turn.
<20(22, 22, 24, 24)(26, 28, 30, 30)>
Sizes S, M, 2XL, 4XL, 5XL
ROWS 2-5: Ch 1, HDC in 1st st, *FpHDC 2, BpHDC 2; rep from * until last st, HDC in last st, turn.
<20(22, 22, 24, 24)(26, 28, 30, 30)>
Sizes XS, L, XL, 3XL
ROW 2: Ch 1, HDC in 1st st, FpHDC 2, *BpHDC 2, FpHCD 2; rep from * until last st, HDC in last st, turn.
<20(22, 22, 24, 24)(26, 28, 30, 30)>
ROW 3: Ch 1, HDC in 1st st, BpHDC 2, *FpHDC 2, BpHDC 2; rep from * until last st, HDC in last st, turn.
ROW 4: As Row 2.
ROW 5: As Row 3.
<20(22, 22, 24, 24)(26, 28, 30, 30)>
All Sizes
ROW 6: Ch 1, *HDC, 2HDC; rep from * until end, turn.
<30(33, 33, 36, 36)(39, 42, 45, 45)>
ROW 7: Ch 1, *HDC 3(3, 2, 3, 2)(2, 2, 3, 2), 2HDC; rep from * across, turn.
<37(41, 44, 45, 48)(52, 56, 56, 60)>
ROW 8: Ch 1, HDC across, turn.
*Your sleeve will have a rainbow/arc shape. As you crochet more rows the edges will start to straighten out. Photo below was taken at the end of ROW 15.
Repeat ROW 8 until your sleeve measures 38(38, 39, 39, 41)(41, 43, 43, 44)cm / 15(15, 15.5, 15.5, 16)(16, 16.5, 16.5, 17)” approx. ROW 38(38, 39, 39, 41)(41, 43, 43, 44).
Fasten off.
Fold sleeve in half lengthways. Whip stitch the edges of the sleeve together.
Assembly
Lay the front panel on top of the back panel.
Whip stitch the shoulder seams together.
Whip stitch up the sides of body panels, leaving a gap for the sleeves.
Whip stitch the top of sleeves to the arm holes.
Turn sweater inside out so that the right side is facing you.
Collar
Insert crochet hook along back of the neck opening.
Secure your yarn and pull up a loop.
ROUND 1: Ch 1, SC evenly along the edge of the neck opening, sl st in the 1st st, turn.
*The exact number of stitches doesn’t matter, just make sure to end on an even number of stitches. Focus on spacing out your stitches evenly - if your neckline is ruffling you have too many stitches and if your neckline is puckering you have too few stitches.
ROUNDS 2 - 4: Ch 1, *alternate between FpHDC 2, BpHDC 2; rep from * around, sl st in 1st st, turn.
*Remember FpHDCs always are crocheted on top of BpHDCs and BpHDCs are always crocheted on top of FpHDCs. If you end the row with a FpHDC, start the next row by ch 1, and then alternating between BpHDC 2, FpHDC 2.
Fasten off.
Finishing
Weave in all of your ends and steam block if desired.
Voilà! You’ve finished your Someday Sweater 🙂
THis is a beautiul pattern and I think I can actually do this. The only concern I have is the part when you sew the body sides up to the sleeve opening. Is there a stitch count to ensure I get this right to attach the sleeves perfectly? If I bought the pattern, does this have that information there? Thank you so much for reading my message, I appreciate it.
Hi Jacqui,
There isn't any specific stitch count, the most important thing is having even stitches - you don't want your stitches to be too tight or too loose. Your stitch tension will also depend on the type of yarn you're using so it would be impossible to give 1 number that fits everyone! I always suggest sewing your items together on a flat surface and and make sure to check your stitches as you sew. You'll be able to see if they're too tight because they'll pull on the edge of the sweater and if they're too loose you'll be able to see gaps. Once you get the hang of the right tension, sewing pieces together becomes a lot easier 🙂
Grace
This is soooo Cute!!! My daughter will love it! I would too but I think I'll make mine a few inches longer to cover my bum. 🙂
Thank you xx
Omg I love this pattern! I just ordered the yarn to make it and it is coming Thursday. Cm you make a similar design with a do weight yarn like Cotlin by WeCrochet or Truboo from Lion Brand
Thanks Ishya! Sure I'll try to make a thinner version in the summer 🙂
Grace
can you tell me how to change it to using size 4 yarn ?
Hi Tamara,
Your gauge will be different so you can follow the measurements as a guide but you'll need to recalculate the stitch and row counts based on the gauge that you have. I can't guarantee your sweater will look like the sample but if you're willing to experiment go ahead!
Grace 🙂
Hi Grace, I am making this sweater in a size medium.
I finished one of the sleeves and realised that the sleeve ribbing circumference is quite tight for my hand to fit in. Is it possible to enlarge the sleeve ribbing circumference but keeping the width of the rest of the sleeve as medium size? If so, can you please suggest a way? Thank you 🙂
Hello! I have the same problem. Did you find a solution?
I’m going to try to make the ribbing part a few stitches longer so it feels comfy on my wrist and then try to follow directions from row 6, perhaps by decreasing. I’m new to crochet, though so we’ll see!
You can also crochet the sleeve instructions for the next size up, if the cuff is more comfortable for your. Just crochet the sleeve a bit shorter and it should still work out well. The slight difference in armhole width won't make a huge difference to the overall look of the sweater.
Grace 🙂
Hi Elisa,
If the cuff is tight but still fits onto your hand, I'd just re-crochet the cuff but looser - maybe go up a hook size - and then for the length of the sleeve, crochet the rest of the pattern as per normal using the previous hook size. The cuffs should stretch out a bit as well after you've blocked your sweater and worn it a few times.
I hope this helps,
Grace
Thank you so much for this amazing pattern. I've been trying to make a swear and I've been so confused. If I want the arm wider, how I do increase the stitches? Much love, from Nigeria!
Sweater***
Hi Tomiwa,
If you want larger sleeves I'd recommend going up a size or two. As long as your gauge matches the pattern, your sleeves should be approximately the same size as the suggested measurements.
Grace
Hi!
Around how many inches should the 6rows of right and left shoulder panel be? Im not sure whether the rows of the one i made with the yarn i have is enough for my head to fit through it. How should i measure it? 🙂
Hi! What an amazing pattern I am about to order the cakes from WeCrochet. My question is, how many cakes / skeins do I need to order for a size L.? I can't find it in the description. I cannot wait to start! Yay and thanks from California.
Anne
It says it in the materials section, it is 8 skeins for a large!
My yarn appears to be way bulkier than your although it is labeled as category 5 as well it calls for a 7 mm hook. Do you think it’s okay to size down to S if I usually wear M? My swatch came out about 2-3 cm too big on each side although I used a 6.5 mm hook as instructed 🤔
I found this pattern on raverly, it was simple and was exactly what I was looking for.
I used 2 strands of 8 ply wool (to make it bulky weight aka 12ply), by Bendigo Woollen Mills. Essentially I used all the leftover wool I had (totaling 1kg).
The only thing I didn't like was the shape of the sleeves, so I did make modifications there (I increased every 3rd row at the beginning and the ends of the sleeve, so it was more tapered rather than bell-shaped).
Really happy with how it turned out, and glad I now no longer have any more scrap wool leftover.
Thanks!
Is the bust measurement the garment size or is it body measurement? Like size small says 34 inches. Is the finished garment supposed to measure 34 inches at the bust or is 34 inches the actual body measurement at the bust?
Hi I love this pattern! I finished the sweater but the width is to tight is there any way I can make the width wider even though it’s finished?
Hello!
I'm excited to have found this pattern. I really want to make the sleeves a different color than the body though and I'm unsure how much of each yarn to buy. For a size Small, I'm thinking 2 balls for the sleeves and 5 balls for the body. Any advice?
Thank you!