The Weekend Snuggle Sweater is the ultimate lounge sweater! Cosy, slouchy and oh so comfy, this easy crochet pullover is perfect for lazy weekends and long enough to wear over leggings!
This free crochet sweater pattern is accompanied by a step-by-step video tutorial.
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As always, all thoughts and opinions are 100% my own 🙂
The Weekend Snuggle Sweater is the ultimate lounge sweater! Crocheted with WeCrochet’s Gloss DK, this easy crochet pullover is perfect for lazy weekends and long enough to wear over leggings!
For this design, I used the stitch pattern of Single Crochet Columns (also called the crochet mesh stitch) which comprises of only single crochets and chains. It’s nice and simple stitch combination that’s beginner friendly! No need for complicated stitch charts yay!
I love how Single Crochet Columns give the overall appearance of a dense crochet fabric but when you look closer you’ll notice that the chains create an airy and open fabric.
The Single Crochet Column stitch has incredible drape (check out the pocket cardigan version – In the Clouds Cardigan!) and is the key to creating the slouchy look! The Weekend Snuggle Sweater is a great seasonal transition pullover for any season (I’ve worn this crochet sweater in spring, fall and winter and it would be great for chilly summer nights!) as this stitch texture will keep your warm without making you overheat.
Sweater Construction
This sweater is crocheted in 4 panels – front, back and 2 sleeves and only uses 2 different stitches throughout the entire pattern – single crochet and single crochet two together!
For both the sleeves and the body are worked from the bottom up. First, we’ll crochet the ribbing and the extend the body and sleeves to your desired length. The written pattern also includes alteration notes if you’d like to make your Weekend Snuggle Sweater shorter or longer!
Once we have all 4 pieces, we’ll crochet the neckline ribbing and then sew everything together. When sewing crochet pieces together to key to getting a clean and neat ‘finish’ is to make sure your stitches have the right tension. Too tight and your seams will pucker, too loose and you’ll have holes in between your stitches! I recommend sewing your pieces together on a flat surface to make it easier to sew even stitches and I always use a bent tip tapestry needle.
If you’ve never tried a bent tip tapestry needle it will change your crochet life! The end of the needle has a bend in it so the tip of the needle flicks up where most tapestry needles are straight. The bend in the needle makes it super easy to pick up strands of yarn and I can sew so much faster with them! Seriously, it takes me half the time to sew crochet pieces together with a bent tip tapestry needle compared to a straight one!
Design Inspiration
We’ve been having a strangely cold summer in New Zealand so I’ve been feeling all the cosy vibes! I really wanted to design a long sweater that was perfect for snuggling on the couch or you can pair it with jeans and ankle boots for an easy weekend look.
I also wanted the sweater to look modern and be super wearable to the point where people would be surprised to learn that it was handmade! I think crochet often has the reputation of looking ‘crafty’ or ‘dated’ but this sweater proves that you can wear crochet at any age!
There are also added alteration instructions to make this sweater as long or as cropped as you want. This crochet pullover would make such a cute sweater dress or use a cotton yarn for a light cropped summer sweater. There’s also a split hem as an added fun detail but you can sew all the down the ribbing for a normal sweater!
YARN
This project uses the yarn Gloss DK from WeCrochet which is a 30% Silk + 70% Merino Wool blend. WeCrochet is KnitPicks new sister site that’s designed specifically for crocheters! It’s such a wonderful resource full of free crochet patterns, hooks and kits and the best part they provide crochet swatches of all the yarn! I’ve never seen any other site with this feature and its honestly so helpful for all of us crocheters when shopping for yarn online.
Gloss DK is a luxurious blend of silk and merino with a soft, pillowy feel and a slight sheen. I used the colour Kenai which is a gorgeously vibrant green-teal which is one of my favourite colours! There’s a range of 10 colours and you can also get the bare hanks of this yarn and dye your very own colour way.
Since this is a silk yarn and I used such a vibrant colour, there was a bit of colour transfer on my hands as I was crocheting but it washes right off! I find that silk yarns tend to bleed (due to the nature of the fibre) but after I steamed and blocked the sweater there wasn’t any colour transfer at all 🙂 When using natural fibres I always recommend hand washing with a good quality wool wash so that your garment lasts as long as possible.
If you’d like an easy to care for machine-washable sweater, Swish DK is a great superwash merino substitute or you could use CotLin (cotton and linen blend) for a cool and airy summer sweater!
One thing to note, is that Gloss DK is quite thick for a DK / Light (3) yarn. It’s not quite a worsted weight yarn but it’s very, very, VERY close. So when looking for substitutes make sure to pick a thicker DK yarn so you can easily meet gauge 🙂
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Weekend Snuggle Crochet Sweater Video Tutorial
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*Sample is a size small shown on a 5’3” model with a 32” bust.
*The sizing guide follows size XS(S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL). E.g. “Ch 71(79, 87, 95, 103, 111, 119) means Ch 71 for XS, Ch 79 for Small, Ch 87 for Medium, Ch 95 for Large, Ch 103 for XL, Ch 111 for 2XL and Ch 119 for 3XL.” If there is only one number, it applies to all sizes.
*”SC 10″ means SC into the next 10 stitches.
*”2SC” means place 2 SC into the same stitch.
*The turning chain ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch, otherwise ch 1 does count as a stitch.
*Total stitches are indicated between < >.
*This pattern uses US crochet terms.
LEVEL: Easy
MATERIALS
Yarn – WeCrochet Gloss – DK/Light (3), 113m/123 yards/50g, 70% Merino Wool + 30% Silk, Kenai
9(9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 13) skeins
approx. 415(435, 455, 510, 550, 585, 640)g
Measurements cm:
Bust: 92(96, 102, 112, 122, 132, 142)
Length: 56(56, 56, 58, 58, 58, 61)
Armhole: 16(16, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20)
Sleeve length: 41(41, 41, 41, 41, 41, 41)
Measurements inches:
Bust: 36(38, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56)
Length: 22(22, 22, 23, 23, 23, 24)
Armhole: 6.5(6.5, 7, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 8)
Sleeve length: 16(16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16)
*Measurements are taken from the sweater lying flat.
The body length will stretch out approx. 5-8cm/2-3” (depending on yarn) once the sweater has been worn.
STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS
Ch = Chain
Sl st = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
SC2tog = Single Crochet 2 stitches together
BLO = Back Loop
St(s) = Stitch(es)
Rep = Repeat
Sk = Skip
GAUGE: 10cm/4” square = 15 stitches wide x 16 rows tall in single crochet column stitch
Single Crochet Columns:
Chain an even number of chains.
ROW 1: SC in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 1, sk 1, SC; rep from * until end, turn.
ROW 2: Ch 1, SC in 1st st, *ch 1, sk 1, SC; rep from * until end, turn.
Repeat ROW 2 until you reach desired length.
Weekend Snuggle Sweater Crochet Pattern
BACK PANEL
*The body panels are crocheted from the bottom up. The ribbing is worked vertically, and then we crochet along the long edge of the ribbing to create the back panel.
BACK RIBBING
FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 9.
ROW 1: SC into 2nd ch from hook, SC in each st until end, turn.
<8>
ROW 2: Ch 1, BLO SC 7, SC in last st, turn.
<8>
Repeat ROW 2 until ROW 69(73, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109).
Do not fasten off! We will now work along the long edge of the band. Each row equals 1 stitch.
BACK
ROW 1: Ch 1, SC in 1st row, *ch 1, sk 1 row, SC in next row; rep from * until end, turn.
<69(73, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109)>
ROW 2: Ch 1, SC in 1st st, *ch 1, sk 1 st, SC; rep from * until end, turn.
<69(73, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109)>
Repeat ROW 2 until ROW 80(80, 80, 84, 84, 84, 88)
*ALTERATION NOTE: You can add or remove rows to make your sweater longer or shorter.
FRONT PANEL
Repeat ‘BACK PANEL’ instructions until ROW 70(70, 70, 74, 74, 74, 78).
*ALTERATION NOTE: If you altered the length of the back panel, crochet until you are 10 rows short of the total rows in your back panel. E.g. if you crocheted 54 rows for the back panel, crochet 44 rows for the front panel.
Do not fasten off! We’ll now crochet the shoulder shaping.
SHOULDER SHAPING
Counting from your crochet hook, place a stitch marker in the 28th(30th, 32nd, 36th, 40th, 44th, 48th) st.
*The stitch marker should be in a chain space, not a SC.
ROW 1: Ch 1, SC in 1st st, *ch 1, sk 1 st, SC; rep from * until 2 sts from the st marker, SC2tog, turn.
<26(28, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46)>
ROW 2: Ch 1, SC2tog, *ch 1, sk 1 st, SC; rep from * until end, turn.
<25(27, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45)>
ROW 3: Ch 1, SC in 1st st, *ch 1, sk 1 st, SC; rep from * until 2 sts left, SC2tog, turn.
<24(26, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44)>
ROW 4: Rep Row 2.
<23(25, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43)>
ROW 5: Rep Row 3.
<22(24, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42)>
ROW 6: Rep Row 2.
<21(23, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41)>
ROW 7: Rep Row 3.
<20(22, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40)>
ROW 8: Rep Row 2.
<19(21, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39)>
ROW 9: Ch 1, SC, *ch 1, sk 1 st, SC; rep from * until end, (last SC should be on top of the SC2tog) turn.
<19(21, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39)>
ROW 10: Ch 1, SC, *ch 1, sk 1 st, SC; rep from * until end. Fasten off, turn.
<19(21, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39)>
Counting from the stitch marker, skip 14 sts, insert hook into next st (hook should be in a SC) and pull up a loop.
ROW 1: Ch 1, SC2tog, SC, *ch 1, sk 1 st, SC; rep from * until end, turn.
<26(28, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46)>
*You can place a st marker into the SC2tog to make it easier to find. In Row 2, the SC2tog is the ‘last’ st of the row.
ROW 2: Ch 1, *SC, ch 1, sk 1 st; rep from * until 2 sts left, SC2tog, turn.
<25(27, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45)>
ROW 3: Ch 1, SC2tog, SC, *ch 1, sk 1 st, SC; rep from * until end, turn.
<24(26, 28, 32, 36, 40, 44)>
*If using the st marker, place it in the SC2tog.
ROW 4: Rep Row 2.
<23(25, 27, 31, 35, 39, 43)>
ROW 5: Rep Row 3.
<22(24, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42)>
ROW 6: Rep Row 2.
<21(23, 25, 29, 33, 37, 41)>
ROW 7: Rep Row 3.
<20(22, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40)>
ROW 8: Rep Row 2.
<19(21, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39)>
ROW 9: Ch 1, SC (first SC should be on top of the SC2tog), *ch 1, sk 1 st, SC; rep from * until end, turn.
<19(21, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39)>
ROW 10: Ch 1, SC, *ch 1, sk 1 st, SC; rep from * until end. Fasten off.
<19(21, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39)>
SLEEVES
(make 2)
*The sleeves are worked from the cuff up. Like the body panels, we’ll crochet the ribbing vertically and then crochet the sleeve directly on to the edge of the ribbing.
SLEEVE RIBBING
FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 11.
ROW 1: SC into 2nd ch from hook, SC in each st until end, turn.
<10>
ROW 2: Ch 1, BLO SC 9, SC in last st, turn.
<10>
Repeat ROW 2 until ROW 31(31, 35, 35, 39, 39, 43).
Do not fasten off! We will now crochet along the long edge of the band.
SLEEVE
ROW 1: Ch 1, SC in 1st row, *ch 1, sk 1 row, SC in next row; rep from * until end, turn.
<31(31, 35, 35, 39, 39, 43)>
ROWS 2 – 4: Ch 1, SC in 1st st, *ch 1, sk 1 st, SC; rep from * until end, turn.
<31(31, 35, 35, 39, 39, 43)>
ROW 5: Ch 1, 2SC in 1st st, ch 1, sk 1 st, *SC, ch 1, sk 1 st; rep from * until last st, 2SC in last st, turn.
<33(33, 37, 37, 41, 41, 45)>
ROWS 6 – 8: Ch 1, SC 2, *ch 1, sk 1 st, SC; rep from * until last st, SC in last st, turn.
<33(33, 37, 37, 41, 41, 45)>
ROW 9: Ch 1, SC in 1st st, ch 1, SC in next st, *ch 1, sk 1 st, SC; rep from * until last st, ch 1, SC in last st, turn.
<35(35, 39, 39, 43, 43, 47)>
ROWS 10 – 13: Rep Rows 2 – 4.
<35(35, 39, 39, 43, 43, 47)>
ROW 14: Rep Row 5.
<37(37, 41, 41, 45, 45, 49)>
ROWS 15 – 17: Rep Rows 6 – 8.
<37(37, 41, 41, 45, 45, 49)>
ROW 18: Rep Row 9.
<39(39, 43, 43, 47, 47, 51)>
ROWS 19 – 22: Rep Rows 2 – 4.
<39(39, 43, 43, 47, 47, 51)>
ROW 23: Rep Row 5.
<41(41, 45, 45, 49, 49, 53)>
ROWS 24 – 26: Rep Rows 6 – 8.
<41(41, 45, 45, 49, 49, 53)>
ROW 27: Rep Row 9.
<43(43, 47, 47, 51, 51, 55)>
ROWS 28 – 31: Rep Rows 2 – 4.
<43(43, 47, 47, 51, 51, 55)>
ROW 32: Rep Row 5.
<45(45, 49, 49, 53, 53, 57)>
ROWS 33 – 35: Rep Rows 6 – 8.
<45(45, 49, 49, 53, 53, 57)>
ROW 36: Rep Row 9.
<47(47, 51, 51, 55, 55, 59)>
ROWS 37 – 40: Rep Rows 2 – 4.
<47(47, 51, 51, 55, 55, 59)>
ROW 41: Rep Row 5.
<49(49, 53, 53, 57, 57, 61)>
ROWS 42 – 44: Rep Rows 6 – 8.
<49(49, 53, 53, 57, 57, 61)>
ROW 45: Rep Row 9.
<51(51, 55, 55, 59, 59, 63)>
ROWS 46 – 49: Rep Rows 2 – 4.
<51(51, 55, 55, 59, 59, 63)>
ROW 50: Rep Row 5.
<53(53, 57, 57, 61, 61, 65)>
ROWS 51 – 53: Rep Rows 6 – 8.
<53(53, 57, 57, 61, 61, 65)>
ROW 54: Rep Row 9.
<55(55, 59, 59, 63, 63, 67)>
Fasten off.
Fold sleeve in half lengthways and whip stitch sides together.
NECKLINE RIBBING
FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 6.
ROW 1: SC into 2nd ch from hook, SC in each st until end, turn.
<5>
ROW 2: Ch 1, BLO SC 4, SC in last st, turn.
<5>
Repeat ROW 2 until ribbing measures 46cm/18” (approx. ROW 66)
ASSEMBLY
Lay the front panel on top of the back panel.
Whip stitch the shoulder seams together.
Whip stitch up the sides of body panels together, leaving a 16(16, 18, 18, 19, 19, 20)cm/ 6.5(6.5, 7, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 8)” gap for the sleeves.
*If you want a split at the side seam (as pictured) sew from the top of the ribbing. If you don’t want a split, sew from the bottom of the ribbing.
Whip stitch the top of the sleeves to the body.
Whip stitch the neckline ribbing evenly around the open edge of neckline.
Sew the edges of the neckline ribbing together.
Weave in all of your ends.
Steam and block your sweater.
Voilà! You’ve finished your Weekend Snuggle Sweater 🙂
can you use any DK weight yarn? I have a closet full of yarn, but every time I see a pattern I have to buy new yarn and I am going broke! I love the sweater and have two granddaughters I would love to make it for.
Hi Lillian, I’d suggest swatching your yarn to see if you meet gauge but any DK yarn should work 🙂 Grace
What a wonderfully explained and illustrated pattern. The instructions were clear and the pictures really helped to let me know whether I was on track with the pattern. Thank you for sharing!
I don’t see anywhere on the pattern where you tell us how much yarn will be needed to complete the sweater.
Hi Heather, the yarn amounts are listed under ‘Materials’ Grace 🙂
Can I buy a sweater from you?? I’d love one in ivory, but I don’t have time to make one. :'( I love this pattern!
I can´t find the video… where can i watch it?
Hi Ana,
The video tutorial is right on the page under the title ‘Video Tutorial’.
Grace 🙂
Hi Grace!
I just finished my sweater and I absolutely love it. I wish I could attach a picture here. Thank you so much.
Love, Maria
Hi Maria,
I’m so glad you like your sweater! Feel free to share photos on Instagram – just tag me @forthefrills or use #forthefrills 🙂
Grace
hola, me podrías ayudar con el punto del cuerpo del sueter, no logro entenderlo ni las disminuciones que hace
soy principiante
Hallo .
If I want to crochet with a thin yarn and a small hook ,what is the difference that I can make in the shoulder that I can make .or how I can inc the row
Hi Fatma, if you’re using a thin yarn and a small hook you’d need to completely rewrite the pattern! If you only have thin yarn e.g. a sport/Fine(2) yarn I’d suggest trying to hold 2 strands together and using the hook recommended to see if you can meet gauge and then adjust accordingly.
Grace
Hi Grace.
I an struggling with the second shoulder section – when I get to the end of row 2 there are 3 stitches left. I start in a SC with an even number of stitches. Can you please help – I tried numerous times and can’t get it right.
Regards,
Rujeanne
Hi Rujeanne, It sounds like you might be counting the ch 1 as a stitch. At the end of Row 2 the last st is the SC2tog from Row 1 – not the ch 1. It might look like you’ve left a stitch empty but as long as your last st is in the SC2tog and you have the right number of total stitches for your size you’re on the right track 🙂 Once we attach the collar all of the edges will ‘smooth’ out.
I hope this helps,
Grace
Love the pattern but could you help me out. I’m puzzled with the two different number of stitches for sizing -first at the top of page when explaining how the sizing works you have eg. M 87 ch and then down to the actual pattern you have M 77. Perhaps I’m missing something. Thankyou
Hi Barbara, the notes just describe how to read the pattern – they aren’t the actual stitch counts. You’ll notice that since the body of the pattern is crocheted onto the ribbing there isn’t a foundation chain for the body portion.
I hope this helps,
Grace 🙂
Thankyou for your reply Grace. I did think that may have been the situation but needed confirmation. I love the pattern – so simple. So far I’ve made two for myself and am in the process of making one for my daughter. I’ve just taken up crocheting again because of co-vid after twenty years and I can tell you this beats crocheted squares. 😃.
Hi Barbara, so glad you’re enjoying crochet again 🙂 Haha yes I find crocheting garments a lot more satisfying! It’s the best feeling to wear something you’ve made with your own two hands!
Grace
Hi Grace
Loving this pattern! I’m doing the sleeves now and wondered where the pattern says something like Row 19-22 (which is 4 rows) and says rep rows 2-4, does it mean do 3 or 4 rows? Eg 2,3,4,2? I’m confused.
Hi Bridget, when the pattern says from Row 19-22: rep rows 2-4, rows 2-4 have the exact same stitch pattern. You follow the stitch the pattern that’s used in rows 2-4, 4 times for rows 19-22. e.g. In your example of 2,3,4,2 – remember that since they have the same stitch pattern row 2=3=4 so essentially you are just repeating row 2, 4 times.
I hope this helps,
Grace
Hi Grace, I’m going to attempt your pattern, as your instructions look fantastic. Just a quick question about the sleeves… when do you sew the sleeve to the opening? That step seems to be missing.
Many thanks
Debra
Hi Debra, after you’ve sewn the body together, ship stitch the sleeves to the body (as stated in the assembly instructions).
Grace 🙂
Hi
Am making the 36 inch size, but am finding the sleeves too narrow for my arms, do I use a 6.5 hook or crochet a larger size eg 48 inch
Thanks
Hi Jacqueline, the easiest way would be to crochet a larger size sleeve 🙂 I’d recommend checking the armhole measurements and pick the size that best suits you.
Grace
Would this pattern work using size 6 yarn 🧶 from Bernat blanket ? I like using blanket yarn as it’s soft and Chunky
Hi Karina, this pattern uses a DK/ Light (3) yarn so a bulky (6) will completely change the gauge and make the sweater a lot larger. You can follow the pattern as a guide but you’ll need to alter your stitch counts and rows to get the sweater to fit you.
I hope this helps,
Grace
Hi! The sweater looks great! I was wondering if the 46 cm measurement for the neckline ribbing is the same regardless of the sweater size (I’m making an XL). Thanks!
Hi Cordelia, yes all sizes have the same ribbing length as this neckline is really stretchy!
Grace 🙂
Hi Grace,
Thank you for sharing this pattern. This will be the first sweater I make and I can’t wait to start! I was wondering if it would be possible to make slits in the sleeves for your thumbs? If so how would I go about doing this?
Thanks,
Rachel
Hi Rachel,
For this pattern you can simply leave a gap when sewing the cuff ribbing together 🙂
Grace
My sleeves seem really short – only about mid-upper arm. Is this right?
Hi Jordyn,
The sleeves for this pattern should be full length – it sounds like you might not have the same gauge as the pattern! If not you’ll need to alter the pattern (probably through adding more rows) but if you have different gauge I can’t guarantee that your sweater will look like the sample!
Grace