The Brooklyn Sweater is the perfect everyday sweater that will keep you cosy and comfy all through fall!
This free crochet pattern is accompanied by a video tutorial 🙂
This post may contain affiliate links, view our disclosure policy for details.
Sometimes simple is best!
The Brooklyn Sweater is created for stylish comfort and pairs effortlessly with high-waisted jeans or over dresses. Made with super chunky yarn this crochet sweater works up quickly and its easy top down construction means that there is no sewing! This sweater will be your go-to pullover during colder months!
Design Inspiration
My first ever pattern was a top down sweater top (Check out the Stephanie Ruffle Sleeve Top!) and it’s been months since I’ve designed a top down garment. Since seaming (and weaving in ends) is my least favourite part of a project, I wanted to create a sweater with as little sewing as possible!
Top down sweaters have so many advantages, you can try the sweater on as you to achieve perfect fit and secondly, you can pick your ideal length for the body and the sleeves.
This pattern begins with a simple ribbed neckline and you work your way down the yoke. In the joining row you separate the sleeves from the body and continue to crochet the body until you have the exact length you want.
If you’re wary about crochet projects in the round due to the seam running down the back of the body, don’t worry! You can use a stitch called a ‘no turning chain’ (demonstrated in the video tutorial) the seam becomes nearly invisible! I really recommend trying it out as it will give your sweater a more ‘finished’ look 🙂
Check out more free crochet patterns here!
1. Easy Textured Sweater / 2. In The Clouds Cardigan / 3. Oversized Pocket Cardigan
Yarn
For this project I used Lion Brand’s Heartland Thick & Quick in the shade ‘Katmai’. It’s a lovely light warm grey with a slightly marled texture. If you look closely, all the Heartland yarns are two-toned which gives the yarn a great dimension and texture.
This yarn has a super soft, silky feel and I can hardly believe it’s 100% acrylic! Since, Heartland Thick & Quick is acrylic the sweater is a lot lighter than wool super bulky yarn and it’s also on the thinner side of a super bulky yarn so this sweater is a lot more wearable for everyday life!
Pin me for later!
Video Tutorial
Notes:
*The size guide follows size XS(S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL). E.g. “Ch 100(116, 132, 148, 164, 180, 196) means Ch 100 for XS, Ch 116 for Small, Ch 132 for Medium, Ch 148 for Large, Ch 164 for XL, Ch 180 for 2XL and Ch 196 for 3XL. If there is only one number, it applies to all sizes.
*"DC 10" means DC into the next 10 stitches.
*"3DC" means place 3 DC into the same stitch.
*Ch 3 always counts as a stitch unless otherwise noted. You can replace ch 3 with a ‘no turning chain’ to reduce the visible seam.’
*Ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch.
*Total stitches are indicated between < >.
*This pattern uses US crochet terms.
LEVEL: Easy
Materials
Yarn – Lion Brand Heartland Thick & Quick – 14ply/Super Chunky/Super Bulky(6), 230m/132g, 100% Acrylic, Katmai (151)
5(5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9) skeins
*Add 1-2 skeins if you’d like to make your sweater longer
9mm (US M) Crochet Hook
4 stitch markers
Darning Needle
Scissors
Stitches & Abbreviations
Ch = Chain
Sl st = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
DC2tog = Double Crochet 2 Stitches Together
FpDC = Front Post Double Crochet
BpDC = Back Post Double Crochet
St(s) = Stitch(es)
Rep = Repeat
GAUGE: 10cm/4” square = 7.5 stitches wide x 5 rows tall in Double Crochet
Measurements cm:
To fit bust: 76(86, 96, 106, 116, 126, 136)
Chest width: 44(47, 50, 52, 55, 60, 65)
Length: 40(42, 44, 46, 48, 52, 56)
Sleeve length: 40(40, 40, 40, 40, 40, 40)
Measurements inches:
To fit bust: 30(34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54)
Chest width: 17.5(18.5, 19.5, 20.5, 21.5, 23.5, 25.5)
Length: 16(16.5, 17.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 22)
Sleeve length: 16(16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16)
Add the Brooklyn Sweater to your Ravelry queue!
Brooklyn Sweater - Ad-free, printable pdf version!
Chunky Crochet Sweater Pattern
YOKE
FOUNDATION CHAIN: All sizes, ch 48, sl st into 1st ch to join.
ROUND 1: Ch 1, SC 48, sl st to join.
<48>
ROUND 2: Ch 3, FpDC, *BpDC, FpDC; rep from * until end, sl st to join.
<48>
ROUND 3: Ch 3, DC 7, 3DC – insert st marker on top of 2nd st in the 3DC cluster, DC 7, 3DC – insert st marker on top of 2nd st in the 3DC cluster, DC 15, 3DC – insert st marker on top of 2nd st in the 3DC cluster, DC 7, 3DC – insert st marker on top of 2nd st in the 3DC cluster, DC 7, sl st to join, turn.
<56>
*After each 3DC cluster move the st maker on top of the 2nd st.
ROUND 4: Ch 3, DC 8, 3DC, DC 9, 3DC, DC 17, 3DC, DC 9, 3DC, DC 8, sl st to join, turn.
<64>
ROUND 5: Ch 3, DC 9, 3DC, DC 11, 3DC, DC 19, 3DC, DC 11, 3DC, DC 9, sl st to join, turn.
<72>
ROUND 6: Ch 3, *DC in each st until the st marker, 3DC into the st with a st marker; rep from * three more times, DC in each st until the end of the round, sl st to join, turn.
<80>
Repeat ROUND 6 until ROUND 10(11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 18).
<112(120, 128, 136, 144, 160, 176)>
*Do not fasten off. We’ll now separate the armholes from the body.
JOINING ROUND: Ch 3, DC in each st until a st marker, DC into st with a st marker, DC into next st with a st marker (you have created your 1st armhole). DC in each st until next st marker, DC into st with a st marker, DC into next st with a st marker (you have created your 2nd armhole). DC in each st until the end of the round, sl st to join, turn.
<66(70, 74, 78, 82, 90, 98)>
*I suggest trying on your sweater – your arms should be able to move freely in the armholes and the joining row fit comfortably around your bust.
For a tighter fit – remove JOINING ROUND and remove rounds of ROUND 6.
For a looser fit – remove JOINING ROUND and add rounds of ROUND 6.
BODY
ROUND 1: Ch 3, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
<66(70, 74, 78, 82, 90, 98)>
ROUND 2: Ch 3, DC 15, DC2tog, DC 35, DC2tog, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
<64(68, 72, 76, 80, 88, 96)>
ROUND 3: Ch 3, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
<64(68, 72, 76, 80, 88, 96)>
ROUND 4: Ch 3, DC 15, DC2tog, DC 33, DC2tog, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
<62(66, 70, 74, 78, 86, 94)>
ROUND 5: Ch 3, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
<62(66, 70, 74, 78, 86, 94)>
Repeat ROUND 5 until ROUND 8.
<62(66, 70, 74, 78, 86, 94)>
*You can add or remove rounds to make your sweater longer or shorter – please note: the ribbing adds 2cm/0.75”
RIBBING ROUND: Ch3, FpDC, *BpDC, FpDC; rep from * until end, sl st to join. Fasten off.
<62(66, 70, 74, 78, 86, 94)>
SLEEVES
Insert hook along edge of the sleeve, secure yarn and pull through a loop.
*To hide the seam, make sure that the back of your sweater is facing you (the side with the line of ch 3/no turning chains), insert your hook into the st with a st marker. Also make sure that the final row of the yoke has the wrong side facing you.
ROUND 1: Ch 3, DC in each st around (including the sts with a st marker), place 2 DC2tog in between the st markers, st sl to join, turn.
<27(29, 31, 33, 35, 39, 43)>
ROUND 2: Ch 3, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
<27(29, 31, 33, 35, 39, 43)>
ROUND 3: Ch 3, DC2tog, DC in each st until end, sl st to join, turn.
<26(28, 30, 32, 34, 38, 42)>
ROUND 4: Ch 3, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
<26(28, 30, 32, 34, 38, 42)>
Repeat ROUNDS 3-4 until ROUND 18.
<19(21, 23, 25, 27, 31, 35)>
ROUND 19: Ch 3, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
*Try on your sweater. You can add or remove ROUND 19 to make your sleeves longer or shorter – please note: the ribbing adds 2cm/0.75”.
RIBBING ROUND: Ch 3, *FpDC, BpDC; rep from * until end, sl st to join. Fasten off.
<19(21, 23, 25, 27, 31, 35)>
Repeat for 2nd sleeve.
*Make sure both sleeves have the same number of rows!
Weave in all of your ends.
Voilà! You’ve finished your Brooklyn Crochet Sweater 🙂
High waisted Jeans or otherwise known as "Mom Jeans" or jeans for those of us who have no hips to keep anything up
Hi! I have some bulky (not super bulky) yarn that I'd love to use for this project. What would you suggest to make it fit? Should I go up a size, or should I use a different sized hook to achieve the same gauge? Thanks:)
Hi Shira,
I'd recommend using the correct hook size for your yarn (or the sweater will be very holey!) and then increasing the yoke until the stitch markers can meet underneath your arms when you try on the sweater. The separate the body from the sleeves. Keep in mind you'll probably need more yarn than the pattern calls for.
I hope this helps,
Grace 🙂
Hey! Are the measures per size pre or post blocking?
Hi Allison, the measurements are 'pre-blocking' although I didn't block this sweater because I liked the fit and didn't want it to grow 🙂
Grace
Are the measurements in the size guide of the finished garment or of the wearer’s body? If I make a L should it measure 42” across the bust or would it measure larger?
Hi, with measurements 'to fit bust' always the bust measurement of the wearer. Chest width = the width of your sweater, so when you measure the width of the sweater for size L it should be approx. 20.5"
Grace 🙂
I just started this pattern with another variety of yarn (Yarn Bee Astounding). I'm using a 10 mm crochet hook and the sweater is turning our super thick-almost like a rug! Perfect for cold nights, or hiking. I'm alternating some colors as I work for a striped affect. Thanks for sharing!
Hey I love this but I only have premier puzzle yarn #5 would this work should I change hook sizes thank u
Hi Katina,
If you change yarn and hook size, you'll change your gauge, so you can follow the pattern as a guide but you'll have to alter the number stitches and rounds you crochet so your sweater will fit. If you're willing to experiment go ahead but I can't guarantee your sweater will look like the sample sorry!
Grace 🙂
Hi Grace,
I cannot find the Lion Brand Heartland Thick & Quick Acrylic yarn here (Calgary, Alberta, Canada) and wanted to check with you as I can find Lion Brand Hometown Super Bulky 6 in acrylic. Is that comparable?
Hi Sharon,
You can use LionBrand Hometown as a substitute but since it's a wool blend (instead of 100% acrylic) just keep in mind that your sweater will be a lot heavier and warmer.
Grace 🙂
Hi, this is a lovely pattern, thank you! I’m really looking forward to making this.
I’m hoping to use Paintbox Yarns Simply Super Chunky, which is 60m/100g per skein. However, the yarn you have used is 230m/132g, which works out to approximately 175m/100g. I am concerned that my yarn has significantly (three times!) less length per 100g, and therefore is a lot thicker. Should I work out the number of skeins needed by weight or length? Thanks!
Hi Grace! I just finished this adorable sweater. I used Bernat Blanket yarn and its so cozy. My only issue is the top/yolk. It slightly turns up on the collar. Do you have any suggestions for how to fix this?
Hi Cayleigh,
It seems like your gauge might have changed mid pattern? I'd recommend trying to steam block your sweater so that it sits nicely on your body 🙂
Grace
*”DC 10″ means HDC into the next 10 stitches.
Did you mean Half Double Crochet? The Stitch isn’t listed.
Thank you!
Oops thanks for catching that! I've fixed the pattern to say DC 🙂 Grace
Hello!
I don’t know if it’s me or my browser or what, but I can’t find the video tutorial on this page. Is it on YouTube?
Hi Emily,
The video is on this blog post under the title 'Video Tutorial' and you can also view it on youTube here - https://youtu.be/YpIvFPnkamY
Grace 🙂
I loved using this crochet pattern! It only took me two days to finish and came out beautifully. The pattern is so easy to follow and I only had to refer back to the video tutorial once or twice to double check my work. Thank you!
Great to hear you enjoyed the pattern Stephanie!
Happy crocheting,
Grace 🙂
Hi! I'd love to try this pattern to make a longer knee length tunic. Would you recommend repeating the last rounds until I get my desired length, or should I add/decrease stitches? Thank you 🙂
Hi Anannya,
I'd recommend measuring the circumference of your sweater and make sure that it's equal to or larger than your hip measurement, if so just repeat rounds until you reach your desired length. If your hip measurement is wider than your sweater you'll need to increase as you add your rounds.
Grace 🙂
hello I'm trying this pattern out and was wondering if the part of the sweater where we do the no turning chain is supposed to be making the sweater be longer on that side. It's making it look a little crooked as the sweater length is about a inch more to the front
nvm i figured out what I was doing wrong Now my question is is the no turning chain noticeably running down the sweater Is it supposed to be noticeable?